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一趟飞往麦纳麦的航班 A flight to Manama

来源:   日期:2024-06-01 21:42:18  点击:8718 
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       开斋节假期的最后一天,怀着过年一样的心情,对新的旅程充满了期待和兴奋。这一天,我计划从中东最大的城市土耳其的伊斯坦布尔飞往巴林首都麦纳麦,去巴林旅游。参观波斯湾西岸岛国上非常有名的“一棵树、一口井、一座桥”,去感受平凡生活里的生命与力量、希望和辉煌。
       4月14日凌晨五点,我早起搭车离开在伊斯坦布尔下榻的酒店,大包小包匆匆前往当地的国际机场。到了机场发现竟然有大量滞留的不同国家的旅客,熙熙攘攘一片,而我飞往麦纳麦的航班也被告知延迟两小时。一开始觉得可能是天气原因导致的。谁知手机突然间弹出新闻“伊朗凌晨对以色列发动大规模袭击,多国关闭领空,大量航班延误或取消”,竟然是战火导致的。
       生活在中东,对于这种小规模战争的消息早已司空见惯;但是在开斋节交战,实属罕见。我不寒而栗,心情也瞬间到了冰点,满是对死亡的恐惧和无力、焦躁和茫然。
       深呼吸让自己冷静了下来后,赶紧仔细查看地图,伊朗接壤土耳其东部的城市,距离我非常远。可哪怕我在西北部的城市,袭击已经结束了,依旧觉得炮火近在咫尺,深怕还有炮弹在空中飞,万一飞偏了该如何是好,心再次提到嗓子眼。
       在忐忑不安中稀里糊涂办完值机手续,找到距离登机口最近的候机室坐了下来。开始一边搜索战争新闻,一边不由自主浮想联翩: “还能不能活着?”、“要不要给家人发个消息告诉他们情况,让他们有个心理准备”、“是不是该写平安嘱了?”……就这样惊慌失措地等了两个小时。
       终于到了登机时间。所有旅客秩序井然排好队准备登机,可是登机口始终紧紧关闭,显示屏上的起飞时间似乎失效了,没有人说得清实际起飞的时间。连已经前来的机组乘员也在安静等待了。我不再跑来跑去到处咨询登机时间,跟随凝滞的空气变得沉默起来,陷入了哀伤。一方面是真得害怕,前路模糊不见;另外一方面这突如其来的袭击其实是加沙冲突外溢的表现罢了,为远在加沙地区人民心痛。
       心绪沉重地不知道过了多久,登机口忽然间打开。工作人员开始比任何时候都认真地检票了,对每个乘客的信息都再三核对。刹那间,我好像获得了新生,即使检票队伍还还很长,依旧迫不及待拿出护照特地为工作人员打开在第一页,整理机票等待通过。
       终于走在登机廊桥上,我的眼眶湿润了,大脑里泛起列夫·托尔斯泰在《战争与和平》中写的“如同黎明与黄昏,在时光的流转中相互交替。战争的残酷如同烈火,焚烧着一切美好;和平的温馨则如春风,唤醒了生命的活力”。十几岁我在祖国图书馆里读的书,三十几岁才在异国他乡理解了它的涵义。行程已被打仗毁灭了,就算到了麦纳麦,也不敢去任何地方;只剩下物种共同的天性“对生的渴望与追求”——尽快离开战火影响的周边地区。
       飞机总算起飞了,以往都是吃了饭就开始睡觉。这一次,我打开3D地图,紧紧盯着航线,默念“Sadhu”祈祷着安全抵达。一小时、两小时、三小时,广播通知还有半个小时将抵达位于麦纳麦的巴林国际机场,悬着的心落地了,如释重负,我耷拉了很久的眼皮紧闭了,进入了梦想。
       梦中好像看见一幅画卷 “柔和的阳光洒在约旦河西岸,微风吹拂着树叶,发出轻轻的沙沙声,绿草如茵的草地上一群群孩童嬉戏打闹,年轻的情侣你侬我侬在河边散步筹划着未来,中年夫妇诉说着家长里短,朋友们满是欢声笑语,分享着彼此的喜悦和快乐……”。开斋节假期的最后一天,怀着过年一样的心情,对新的旅程充满了期待和兴奋。这一天,我计划从中东最大的城市土耳其的伊斯坦布尔飞往巴林首都麦纳麦,去巴林旅游。参观波斯湾西岸岛国上非常有名的“一棵树、一口井、一座桥”,去感受平凡生活里的生命与力量、希望和辉煌。
       4月14日凌晨五点,我早起搭车离开在伊斯坦布尔下榻的酒店,大包小包匆匆前往当地的国际机场。到了机场发现竟然有大量滞留的不同国家的旅客,熙熙攘攘一片,而我飞往麦纳麦的航班也被告知延迟两小时。一开始觉得可能是天气原因导致的。谁知手机突然间弹出新闻“伊朗凌晨对以色列发动大规模袭击,多国关闭领空,大量航班延误或取消”,竟然是战火导致的。
       生活在中东,对于这种小规模战争的消息早已司空见惯;但是在开斋节交战,实属罕见。我不寒而栗,心情也瞬间到了冰点,满是对死亡的恐惧和无力、焦躁和茫然。
       深呼吸让自己冷静了下来后,赶紧仔细查看地图,伊朗接壤土耳其东部的城市,距离我非常远。可哪怕我在西北部的城市,袭击已经结束了,依旧觉得炮火近在咫尺,深怕还有炮弹在空中飞,万一飞偏了该如何是好,心再次提到嗓子眼。
       在忐忑不安中稀里糊涂办完值机手续,找到距离登机口最近的候机室坐了下来。开始一边搜索战争新闻,一边不由自主浮想联翩: “还能不能活着?”、“要不要给家人发个消息告诉他们情况,让他们有个心理准备”、“是不是该写平安嘱了?”……就这样惊慌失措地等了两个小时。
       终于到了登机时间。所有旅客秩序井然排好队准备登机,可是登机口始终紧紧关闭,显示屏上的起飞时间似乎失效了,没有人说得清实际起飞的时间。连已经前来的机组乘员也在安静等待了。我不再跑来跑去到处咨询登机时间,跟随凝滞的空气变得沉默起来,陷入了哀伤。一方面是真得害怕,前路模糊不见;另外一方面这突如其来的袭击其实是加沙冲突外溢的表现罢了,为远在加沙地区人民心痛。
       心绪沉重地不知道过了多久,登机口忽然间打开。工作人员开始比任何时候都认真地检票了,对每个乘客的信息都再三核对。刹那间,我好像获得了新生,即使检票队伍还还很长,依旧迫不及待拿出护照特地为工作人员打开在第一页,整理机票等待通过。
       终于走在登机廊桥上,我的眼眶湿润了,大脑里泛起列夫·托尔斯泰在《战争与和平》中写的“如同黎明与黄昏,在时光的流转中相互交替。战争的残酷如同烈火,焚烧着一切美好;和平的温馨则如春风,唤醒了生命的活力”。十几岁我在祖国图书馆里读的书,三十几岁才在异国他乡理解了它的涵义。行程已被打仗毁灭了,就算到了麦纳麦,也不敢去任何地方;只剩下物种共同的天性“对生的渴望与追求”——尽快离开战火影响的周边地区。
       飞机总算起飞了,以往都是吃了饭就开始睡觉。这一次,我打开3D地图,紧紧盯着航线,默念“Sadhu”祈祷着安全抵达。一小时、两小时、三小时,广播通知还有半个小时将抵达位于麦纳麦的巴林国际机场,悬着的心落地了,如释重负,我耷拉了很久的眼皮紧闭了,进入了梦想。
       梦中好像看见一幅画卷 “柔和的阳光洒在约旦河西岸,微风吹拂着树叶,发出轻轻的沙沙声,绿草如茵的草地上一群群孩童嬉戏打闹,年轻的情侣你侬我侬在河边散步筹划着未来,中年夫妇诉说着家长里短,朋友们满是欢声笑语,分享着彼此的喜悦和快乐……”。

It’s the last day of the Eid holiday, with the same mood as the New Year, full of anticipation and excitement for the new journey. On this day, I planned to fly from Istanbul, Turkey, the largest city in the Middle East, to Manama, the capital of Bahrain, to travel to Bahrain,visit the very famous "A Tree, a Well, and a Bridge" on the island country on the west coast of the Persian Gulf to feel the life and power, hope and glory in ordinary life.
At five o'clock in the morning on April 14, I got up early and took a bus to leave the hotel where I was staying in Istanbul. I packed my bags and hurried to the local international airport. When I arrived at the airport, I found that there were a large number of stranded passengers from different countries. It was bustling with traffic, and my flight to Manama was also informed that it would be delayed for two hours. At first I thought it might be caused by the weather. Unexpectedly, the news that "Iran launched a large-scale attack on Israel in the early morning, many countries closed their airspace, and a large number of flights were delayed or canceled" suddenly popped up on the phone was actually caused by the war.
Living in the Middle East, news of such small-scale wars has long been common; but fighting on Eid al-Fitr is rare. I shuddered, and my mood suddenly reached freezing point, full of fear of death, powerlessness, anxiety and confusion.
After taking a deep breath to calm down, I quickly looked at the map carefully. The cities in Iran bordering eastern Turkey were very far away from me. But even though I was in a city in the northwest and the attack was over, I still felt that the artillery fire was close at hand. I was deeply afraid that there were still shells flying in the air. What should I do if they missed the target? My heart was in my throat again.
I finished the check-in procedure in a daze and felt uneasy, then found the waiting room closest to the boarding gate and sat down. While searching for war news, I couldn't help but think about it: "Can I still be alive?", "Should I send a message to my family to tell them about the situation so that they can be mentally prepared?", "Is it time to write a safety note?"... ...and waited in panic for two hours.
Finally it was time to board the plane. All passengers lined up in order to board the plane, but the boarding gate was always tightly closed. The departure time on the display seemed to be invalid, and no one could tell the actual departure time. Even the crew members who had already arrived were waiting quietly. I no longer ran around asking for boarding time. I followed the stagnant air and became silent and fell into sadness. On the one hand, we were really scared and the way forward was blurry; on the other hand, this sudden attack was actually a manifestation of the spillover of the conflict in Gaza, which made me feel heartbroken for people in Gaza.
I don’t know how long it took with my heart heavy, but the boarding gate suddenly opened. The staff began to check tickets more carefully than ever before, checking each passenger's information again and again. In an instant, I seemed to have been given a new lease of life. Even though the ticket check-in queue was still very long, I still couldn’t wait to take out my passport and open it on the first page for the staff to organize my tickets and wait for approval.
Finally walking on the boarding bridge, my eyes were filled with tears. What Leo Tolstoy wrote in "War and Peace" came to my mind: " Just like dawn and dusk, they alternate in the flow of time. The cruelty of war is like a raging fire, plundering all the good things; the warmth of peace is like the spring breeze, awakening the vitality of life. " I read the book in the library of my motherland when I was a teenager, but I didn’t understand its meaning until I was in my thirties in a foreign country. The itinerary had been ruined by the war, and even if I arrived in Manama, I did not dare to go anywhere; only the common nature of the species "the desire and pursuit of life" was left - to leave the surrounding areas affected by the war as soon as possible.
The plane finally took off. In the past, I always started to sleep after eating. This time, I opened the 3D map, stared at the route, silently recited "Sadhu" and prayed for safe arrival. One hour, two hours, three hours later, the broadcast announced that we would arrive at Bahrain International Airport in Manama in half an hour. My hanging heart fell to the ground, and I felt relieved. I closed my eyelids that had been drooping for a long time and entered a dream.
I seem to see a picture in my dream: "The soft sunshine is shining on the West Bank, the breeze is blowing the leaves, making a gentle rustling sound, groups of children are playing and playing on the green grass, and young lovers are chatting with each other. Walking by the river planning the future, middle-aged couples talking about their parents’ shortcomings, friends laughing and sharing each other’s joy and happiness..."
作者 刘珊珊,毕业于陕西师范大学中文系,从事过媒体新闻采编,在世界500强工作过,现为旅居阿联酋华文散文作家。

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